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Walking the Amalfi Coast

Listed under Walking in The Amalfi Coast, Italy.

  • Photo of Walking the Amalfi Coast
  • Photo of Walking the Amalfi Coast
  • Photo of Walking the Amalfi Coast
  • Photo of Walking the Amalfi Coast
  • Photo of Walking the Amalfi Coast
  • Photo of Walking the Amalfi Coast
  • Photo of Walking the Amalfi Coast
  • Photo of Walking the Amalfi Coast
Photo of Walking the Amalfi Coast
Photo by flickr user Kari_Marie
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Usually being an off the beaten track kind of traveller looking to remote villages, uninfluenced local customs and culture and places that my friends have to google to locate on a map, walking the Amalfi Coast didn’t send me off straight away to pack up my pack and start choosing the best footwear. But it possibly should have.

I was expecting the same overused view I’ve seen on postcards from people I know who only a few years ago were going on 18-30 holidays to Ibiza and Tenerife, but it was much more than what I was expecting. The sweeping mountain scenery that gets me going was here in force, and if the drama wasn’t quite that of Nepal, I think the highest peak in the region is 1,400, but then you are seeing it almost rise from the sea, the view turning 180 degrees of the coastline more than made up for it. I also thought I’d be mingling with the over 60’s walking holiday tour set, but there were plenty of trails to choose from and being me and partial to the most difficult looking path I can find I didn’t come across anyone I wouldn’t have been happy to pass on Mont Blanc (but I’m sure if you’re in the over 60’s walking holiday tour set you’ll enjoy this trip as well.).

As well as the attractive vistas there is also a wealth of culture waiting to be absorbed. And it may not be particularly remote or uninfluenced but it’s actually far more ancient and probably more of an influence on modernity than the other way around. Just out of Amalfi, past some lemon groves is the monastery of Santa Rosa and on from there is the easy but famous “Footpath of the Gods” which has views across to Capri worth sharing a track with other people for.

On from there is Positano, a particularly attractive town perched on the coast in a rakish, defiant fashion below which is a valley you can complete some ascents of the Lattari Mountains, if you like that sort of thing, nothing too thrilling but it makes a nice way to break up the pleasant easy cliff top walking. Ravello is another nice town to stop in, but there are numerous, all clinging to the cliff and with plenty of places to stay. Round the corner and you’ll see views of Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples.

This is a civilised walking trip if ever there was one, lots of good food and drink in the evening and views and clear skies all day. I’m disappointed al myself that I enjoyed it so much really. Now I’m tempted to tackle some other more popular journeys that my friends will have heard of and maybe even completed before me.

Written by  paul.birss.

Comments, reviews and questions by other travellers

Walk of the Gods...or pathway to Hell ?

The must do walk is the Sentiere Deglai Dei or the ‘Walk of the Gods’ but only if your vertigo is in sync with the walking shoes as the route along the roof of the Amalfi Coast is not for the faint hearted.

Best method to trek, without walking the 1000 steps up to the commencement, is to catch the bus from Amalfi waterfront to the village of Boomerano on the Agerola bus and start with the least amount of uphill walking.

The bus is full as the early part of the day is popular especially with the large contingent of Tyrolean Terror trekkers replete with walking sticks and Everest hiking boots ready to conquer the Alpino.

It is a ponderous bus route in a series of tight bends some requiring a second go as the bus tacked into the oncoming traffic as the rocking horse special lurched into Panavision and vistorama overload along the precipitous route.

Boomerano is a nondescript village about 16 kilometres from Amalfi and the Church is the beacon for commencement and the most gentile of curates in sartorial elegance was on the path seemingly to bless the forthcoming journey.The pathway begins with blessed innocence onto an easily negotiable manufactured walkway before dissipating with a vengeance around some bluffs of despair.

This is not an altogether fair description but the awesome vista blows the senses as one conquers the vertiginally challenged equilibrium as it seems a volume of depth bounces the most balanced of souls. The footholds seem precarious in parts as the ‘rubble run’ or marbles of granite lurk about for the unwary.

The pathway meanders along the mountain side with views from every part and the 2000 metre sheeraway in sectors treat the optical and neural nerves to a new high.

The survival of the walking species is definitely in the spring and autumn as summer heat and winter chills would add another dimension. In parts structures of a bygone era on sloping abandoned gardens begs the questions; were they escape holes from the wars ,how did they put foundations on the edge of precipices, how could they survive on the bare patches? The wonder that makes up this great walk and the availability amid a very popular tourist area begs the question on its survival or perhaps the intensity required to do it will be self governing.

The pathway in parts has rocky sectors dropping away to unseen chasms and only one push could act as a marriage equaliser and no evidence could be found. There is a rainbow at the end of the walk as after 4 hours the hamlet of Nocello cried out to be visited and the recommended trattoria at the village entry is a clean machine with E7.50 pasta of the day to die for. The killer penne pomidoro was supplemented by the balsamico and the chilled locale vino bianco blending in with the mind stopping view of Positano 1000s of meters below.

Price per square inch this view will stop the most dedicated and to get the full whack the footway downwards is a jaywalker’s paradise. A booby prize is to be tempted to take the perceived short cut halfway down the Nocello road and enter knee wrenches hell as the 1500 steps jolt the brain into submission and tip one into the Positano back alleys.

1 Reply

Your description actually only temps me more, I think...

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