Walking through the Kozjansko Hills in East Slovenia and discovering a beguiling patchwork of hills and vineyards is one of my favourite activities. It’s a relatively easy walk from the ancient settlement of Brezice with its splendid Baroque castle, through easy-on-the-eye, gentle countryside full of calvaries, bucolic hills and meadows to the spa village of Podcetrtek. East Slovenia is very accessible (use Atomski Topliske railway station), with a hilly but not mountainous landscape. Whilst out walking, you’ll meet friendly, sunny people as they go about their lives eking out their living from a couple of hectares of vineyard. They have done this for generations, with only a break during World War II when the Nazis went about a severe resettlement programme. My highlights of this area are the rustic wines, hewn cellars and degustations, the pilgrim destination of Svete Gore with its five churches, castles, woodland, the Spa and Ljubljana at either end…

Written by  Simon Scutt.

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