Well designed and varied, El Retiro is Madrid’s most widely visited park. It’s especially popular on Sundays, when the Madrileños flock in to lounge on the grass, stroll by the lake, argue over games of boules, or rollerblade their way into the flowerbeds. Especially worth a wander is the amphitheatre, where an energetic throng end their weekend with impromptu drumming, dancing and circus skills. Boats can be hired out on the lake, though whether your voyage ends up relaxing or farcical largely depends on who you allow in your boat.

Written by  Eleanor Dean.

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