Built for a Habsburg emperor and his wife, the original trains and waiting rooms were the epitome of restrained, polite Indulgence and the overall impression has changed very little. The monstrous, grumbling 1930s steam trains pull strings of old carriages, which might as well be haunted by a communist party official for all the oppressive nostalgia and old-fashioned service, and this rather adds to the surreal charm. The full, three-day trip makes three circles from Budapest, to Szeged, to Lake Balaton and to the wild North East, where eagles and a few very secretive bears and wolves still lurk.

Written by  larapiegeler.

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