Soft elegance abounds at this colonial-style hotel, which offers peace in the city, a great pool, super rooms and excellent service

La Résidence hits all the right notes: lush tropical gardens, delightful airy rooms, loungers encircling a cool blue pool and warm colonial architecture that fits snugly in its place. It stands across the road from the Siem Reap river with the old town a short stroll west, but you might want to stay put – this is one of those intoxicating hotels that pulls off the rarest trick; you simply feel happy padding about its tranquil corridors and paths.

Skip over a ribbon of water that wraps around the main house in Japanese style and you enter a world of wood. An airy first-floor bar is soon to move downstairs so it can spill out onto the swimming pool terrace, while an air-conditioned restaurant already slips into the garden in clement weather. Most of the bedrooms horseshoe around the swimming pool, some with garden views, others overlooking the river or pool. All are hugely restful and come with a private terrace or balcony. As for Angkor, guides and cars can be arranged, so pull yourself away from the tranquility and explore its endless majesty. Brilliant.

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