These great rivers have so many ports to visit that even a journey of a single day gives a sense of the history of such a great and important trade route. And that is what this river represents, a great slinking, dragging, proud trade route though Europe, all her important cities, or those with the greatest wealth at least line its banks, all pointed spires and crowded, yet beautiful architecture.

Kelheim is the Danube's first main port yet more journeys start at Regensburg, the river's oldest city, with the river's oldest and most ancient stone bridge (12th Century), splitting the river, now just wide enough for proper river traffic, into 16 stone arcs, a fitting start to the journey.

Passau at the juncture of three great rivers is the first of the larger towns and cities, and an excellent introduction, in its history and architecture, for what follows. The highlight, if you disembark here must be the cathedral. Before Linz the river bends in the surprising loop of the Schlögener Schlinge where it feels like you have turned so far you're going back the other way, here the river is lined with pretty villages.

Irrigating the wine region of Wachau on its meander between Melk and Krems, the river carves through a broad, hill lined valley famous for vineyards and orchards. Melk Abbey is a beautiful Baroque sight and has towers and architecture worth disembarking for, as well as an ancient library and walls hung with paintings of Austrian heritage and nobility, and if you do, you must also venture down the medieval lanes and alleys of Krems and drink the Riesling the local people are so proud to produce. If you have only time for one day on the river this is the Danube at its most scenic and there is easy access from Vienna, which should probably be your next significant stop on your journey down river, but not before you pass a portion almost as lovely, where castles perched on the rivers bend, including the lovely Schonbuhel Castle, answer every corner turned.

Vienna is where, if you are cruising with a line rather than at your own leisure as few of us are able to do, you will want to spend more time than they allow, yet think of this as a journey rather than a city hop and return to experience more than just the graceful buildings that line the river and the at once delicate and historically permanent bridges that you pass under.

Bratislava follows Vienna; a city changed from capital, to suburb of Vienna, and back and the architecture is accordingly beautiful and historic as are its stories. The old town in the centre is easily un-missable, with its medieval gate, cobbled streets and Baroque buildings, could it be the new Prague?

The more historic and beautifully scenic section of the Danube ends, I believe, in Budapest, a city too many people neglect when travelling the Grand Tour, yet with as much heavy history as any other. Entering the twin cities all lit up in the evening, lights reflecting off the river, is a pleasure of the old fashioned variety. On the outskirts the land changes shape from rolling hills of Buda to flat openness or Pest and the river again broadens.

Written by  Lesley Harris.

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