Going out in search of tundra dwellers such as arctic fox, sea otters and elk can be great fun, especially with an experienced local to guide you. On our tour we spotted 6 elk, and at one point I found myself trampling in snow that was almost chest-deep to catch a closer glimpse of one known as Harald.

They are impressive creatures, generally taller than a horse and very territorial. “If he goes for you just get behind a tree!” came the far-from-reassuring shout from our guide Per.

Further ahead we saw a mother and calf crossing the road as well as a majestic beast half as large again as the other males we had seen. Per had named him Hakon, after the powerful medieval king Hakon Hakonsson, and his name suited him very well. He stood unafraid and let us get quite close to him before calmly heading away.

Written by  Alice Bonasio.

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