The Marché Centrale is where people do their main grocery shopping, topping up on specialities in Kaat Smen souk.

Achbine Souk was once the place to source your traditional remedies, your chameleons in jars or snakeskins or gazelle's horns, but there are only a few of these left now, most of the stalls along it sell birds, of the live kind: chickens, pigeons, doves, turkeys. There are also lots of food stalls. Some of them probably selling the same birds down the line.

Souk Triba has cosmetic and electronics shops, and an orange tree in the centre of the square. Behind it is Souk Tallis, good for wool, wheat and cloth. Souk Selham and the few surrounding it all sell material and haberdashery, but for a really special outfit you should hop over to Chemmaine Souk, which sells ceremonial garb. For a bargain visit L'marqtane – it used to be the slave market but it's now a second hand clothing market.

Written by  Esther Blume.

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