Hotel Locarno

As soon as you step in to the Locarno you feel you’ve arrived in a place of charm – if you appreciate, that is, worn parquet flooring and an old world feel. Built in 1925, it retains the unhurried atmosphere of a traditional albergo, in sharp contrast to the racing traffic of the Lungo Tevere just a few steps away.

Upstairs the rooms can be a disappointment. A little dowdy, with faded colours and dusty silk walls, they have a slightly melancholy air about them – ideal for poets and real romantics but come prepared. Some are brighter and striped. Bathrooms have been well restored but are small. You won’t feel you want to linger in these rooms unless you are contemplating a double suicide with your lover. You can also hear the dull roar of the Lung Tevere road nearby.

Across in the annex, however, contrary to the usual order of things, is another story. Even if you are planning a dramatic farewell, you can do it in far more style over here. The four deluxe rooms are enormous, with exotic fantasy wallpapers and silks, fabrics and mouldings. You can drift to sleep (overnight or permanantly) under magnificent and ornate ceilings, or drown in style in the enormous bathroom of room 605. 602 has a smaller bathroom but a freestanding tub. All are quieter, being the other side of the main building from the big road. There’s also a suite here, but at nearly twice the price we recommend you stick to the deluxes, which in some ways are better – one large room rather than two slightly smaller.

Unfortunately you cannot be guaranteed the room of your choice (only request), but if you book a deluxe they are all here and you will be more than satisfied. The few superior and standard rooms here are also preferable to those in the main building.