Albergo del Senato

The 56 room Albergo del Senato could hardly be better positioned. Slap bang next to the Pantheon, it is both a buzzing social centre downstairs, and boasts views from its roofterrace onto the bald pate of that astonishing building. Having said that, many of the 35 rooms that have views are strangely disappointing. For a start the windows in many are too high, so you can't see anything when lying in bed. The sun can also stream through the windows, meaning you may have to draw the blinds. Ask for one with french style floor to ceiling windows, with balconies.

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In addition, they are also small, though not noisy, due to the super efficient double glazing. Personally, if you can't secure a good one, I would revel in the position and dump the view, and opt instead for one of the larger, quieter rooms at the back, preferably in the old wing. Here the decor is more elegant than the more ordinary - though perfectly adequate - creamy/beige/dusty pink main rooms, with their gently ornate modern furnishings, and florid blue/green corridors. These rooms - just two doubles, a twin, and a family room - have cool tiled floors and rugs, and creamy pink plaster walls, ideal for the Roman summer climate. The ceilings boast modern though traditional frescoes. The family room is light and large - though as in all the suites here, not so well suited to four adults.

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A star attraction of the hotel is its roof terrace, boasting views not just of the Pantheon's desecrated dome, at very close quarters, but also a distant St Peters. There's a bar up there on summer evenings.

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Staff seem friendly and accommodating. The rates too are attractive - post-renovation, this hotel would easily qualify for four star status, but the manager prefers to retain the expectations of a three star and then exceed them. Judging by the loyal clientele, he succeeds admirably. A 25% Italian clientele is also a recommendation.