To ride like the devil takes on a new meaning in wild, wooded Romania.  Forests are thick, castles are forbidding, and farmland may be unfenced,  promising long gallops through game-rich countryside. Count Kálnoky’s Transylvanian Equestrian Centre offers weeklong trail itineraries starting from the count’s riding centre at Valea Crisului in Transylvania, as well as day rides starting from Miklósvár.   The Centre breeds its own purebred Shagya Arabian and Lipizzaners, as well as crossbreeds combining the Romanian mountain pony Hutzul and Lipizzaners.  (All these breeds are described on the website!)  For those who enjoy carriage horsemanship, there are also carriage-driving lessons and multi-day tours featuring strong Semigreu horses.   All multi-day itineraries feature nights in guesthouses and locally-owned hotels with personal attention and traditional cooking.   Rides continue all winter:  if you dress warmly, you may be rewarded with spotting of wolves, bears, and lynx . . . or at least their tracks.  The actual animals may be as hard to find as vampires during daylight hours.  

Written by  Claudia Flisi.

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