Narrow lanes of white limestone smoothed passage of feet over the years, sunset views over islands in the Adriatic, strings of garlic and of figs in the market, ancient churches lit up against the night sky...the city of Zadar packs in plenty of images for its size. The old part of the city is set on a peninsula little more than half a kilometre long, surrounded by walls built by the Venetians. They ruled here for a while in the long history of conquest and change that stretches from pre-Roman times to the turbulence of the breakup of former Yugoslavia.

Each phase of its history has left a mark. Churches, cathedrals and museums are all within a few minutes walk. There's a wide open square which used to be a Roman forum before it became home to St Donats cathedral in the eleventh century. Local women sit along the Roman walls displaying hand-made lace tablecloths and stalls sell decorated earthenware plates. Near the quay where fishing boats dock is a busy, colourful market selling fresh fish, fruit, vegetables, cheese, ham and other local produce.

As well as the ancient buildings, there are some interesting modern structures to see. The bridge connecting old and new Zadar was destroyed in the post-Yugoslavia conflict and there's a new one designed with lighting so that people crossing it at night are silhouetted, forming a moving art work. At the seaward end of town is a unique musical instrument, a sea organ. Visitors and locals sit on white marble steps by the water and listen as waves generate sounds in a series of pipes and resonating chambers, producing natural music blending with the views of sea and sky.

The stone-paved streets and ancient squares of Zadar are mostly pedestrianised. Exploring the old town on foot is easy as everything is within quite a compact area and you are always near a pavement cafe for coffee, beer or food, including rolls made with the famous local ham. There are plenty of restaurants and these tend to serve freshly cooked local food, especially seafood, and are quite reasonably priced. At the end of the day it's worth being on the promenade as it faces west and gives a great view of the sun setting over the sea and the nearby islands.

Written by  Jenny Fowler.

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