Traditionally truffle harvests were times when the whole village flocked into the surrounding woodland to see pigs careering around the forest floor, pulling their owners behind them as they snuffle excitedly amongst the tree trunks. Today the Mostra Mercato Nazionale del Tartufo Bianco di San Miniato (San Miniato National White Truffle Market), which takes place during the last three weekends of November, is a much more upmarket affair and more about degustation than discovery. By the time you arrive the truffles have already been found by the truffle dogs, who exceed their porcine colleagues as they don’t eat the truffles as soon as they find them, and your only job is to enjoy all the fabulous dishes and products that are concocted with them. High up in the town sit huge white tents where you can try fresh mushrooms, cheeses, salamis, olives and the time is also right for the vini nuovi, the newly fermented wines from the grapes picked in the most recent harvest. The display of truffle orientated products is impressive with truffle oil, jarred truffles, truffle butter, jam, liqueur and of course the eponymous truffles themselves, still muddy and spread upon paper bags displaying their price. To taste the truffles in action on the day grab a pizza bianca con tartufi, fried polenta topped with truffle sauce or a flat bread with truffle sausage, all of which are accompanied perfectly by a glass of mulled wine.

Written by  Alessia Horwich.

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