The inhabitants of Helsinki grow up eating as many herrings as you do hot dinners. Finnish herring are smaller and more delicate in flavour than those we find in the shops at home, due to the Baltic Sea's comparatively low salt content. They're normally sold at Kauppatori Market on the marina, where fishermen come to sell their wares directly from their boats and the market stalls stock all other kinds of groceries besides – but during the Silakkamarkkinat's festival time, it's all about herring. The fishing season draws to a close in October, and the huge, final catch is sold off all at once in a vast smorgasbord of fresh, salted, pickled and marinated options.
Just so long as you like herring, you can choose between mustard, citrus, garlic, chili, herb and fruit flavours. Eat them on the go, as they are with a wedge of local, dark bread or enjoy them as part of the seasonal restaurant fare in a bewildering selection of dishes.
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