Ksar Ghilane is probably the most famous oasis in North Africa - mostly because it resembles every Westerner's fantasy of what an oasis should look like - a clump of green palms surrounded by sand dunes, with a limpid pool in the middle. Unfortunately in season it is also packed solid with said westerners, all searching for that 'desert experience'. The best thing is to hire a bedouin guide and a couple of camels and go out into the desert for a night or two - as the desert cannot be really experienced without spending the night under the stars in utter silence.

The best way to get here is to cross the desert on foot, by camel or 4x4 from Douz. There's also a tarmaced road, but the journey is less spectacular.

Written by  James Dunford Wood.

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