The Piazza Navona Christmas Market is like a concentration of the duality that makes Rome itself so exciting: the vivid presence of history and tradition thriving and growing amongst everyday 21st century life. Some of the city's most spectacular ancient sights are borrowed as settings for bright, unrestrainedly pretty 'presepi', or Nativity tableaux (-you'll see more of these than Christmas trees) and instead of brass bands, there'll be pipers dressed in sheepskin coats and breeches after the tradition of the Italian shepherds who, long ago, would come down from the mountains in the winter to play well-loved old tunes. Even our thoroughly modern Santa Claus goes about his jolly business unperturbed by la Befana, an old lady who flies on a broom and also leaves gifts for the children though in her case, it's in the hope that they might be the Christchild, whom she once missed a chance to meet. (Don't go home without a model of her to hang from your tree!)

Wander amongst the stalls packed with toys, carved figurines, holly wreaths, porcelain dolls and decorations and make sure you leave space at lunch so you can try iced, spicy cookies, pannetone, marzipan fruits, enormous ciambelle donuts, gingerbread and torrone and then take a ride on the carousel! Italian Christmas heaven.

Written by  larapiegeler.

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