From the air this beach would look pretty lovely. The water is blue, the sand white and the bits of green neatly shaped and sprouting perfectly proportioned palm trees. Even the boardwalk looks inviting. The shades of the pools compliment the blues of the gulf instead of making them look dirty, and all in all you'd fly over it assuming luxury. And you'd be right. There's children's play equipment, an amphitheatre with live music, barbecue pits, kiosks selling ice creams, fast food and salads and marked out volleyball AND beach volleyball courts. You have to pay 5dhms entrance, then it's 15dhm for a sun lounger and 5dhm for an umbrella. The entrance fee is probably how they keep the beach clean, in all the photos it looks pristine, as does the park behind it, which also sports manicured lawns and children's play equipment over its 12 hectares.

Jumeirah is one of the most upmarket parts of Dubai, it's got the 7 star Burj Al Arab Hotel, and the Jumeirah Beach Hotel which is the one that looks like the fin of a great big sea creature, not the one that looks like the sail of an America's Cup yacht.

Monday is ladies day, when boys over five are unwelcome, but on other days there's no dress code, you're just as able to wear your bikini as you are a sari or burqa.

Written by  Ame P. Oliver.

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