The journey to this hazy rum-soaked beach may be slightly dramatic, but as soon as you arrive you enter into a microcosm of escape. The long, dramatic road you’ll tread to get here was built by the Italian dictator, Juan Vincente Gomez in 1930 as a get out route to the sea. Hairpin bends, carefree, horn-happy drivers and a fair ride later and you’ll have passed the test. By day, relax in a hammock, test the choppy sea, stroll the warm sand, or climb smooth rocks to get a better view of a place well known for its hippy hedonism.
Communes, past and present are visible high up in the hills and the jewellery made there is displayed along the Maleca. Glimmering from the stalls and stretching across the promenade, the coloured trinkets for sale change colour in the sun; by night they glow mysteriously as Afro Venezuelan drums break out. Armed with a Guarapita, a sickly mix of cane alcohol and sugar, head down to the regular parties by the shore… and party on sands which remember years of secrets. Exhausting rhythms of salsa drive the dancers on, probably onto the wrong side of appropriate, in a circle around you. Feel free to join in but be prepared to be booed if your moves aren’t up to scratch. Juice stalls, and a barbeque are also there to replenish. Beware of a suspicious looking seafood treat sold by the locals, known as the “Seven powers” it is filled with a certain something to “bring you back to life”.
This beach has a plethora of weathered party goers, who have been visiting since the sixties but perhaps the most experienced of them all is unlikely suspect, Saint John the Baptist. Yes, he may have prophesised that fire was coming to destroy the wicked, but his statue is suspended on a chair overlooking the beach. San Juan has seen it all, and is a symbol of good luck and prosperity for the locals.
Written by
Sybilla Harvey.
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