When one thinks of holidays in France it is usually the beaches of the South or the ski resorts of the Alps that spring to mind. However, for the traveller in search of more intellectual that physical stimulation, the North of France has much to offer with its numerous battlefields and locations of historical interest. One such site is Verdun, situated on the River Meuse in the North East of the country.

Verdun was the site of one the longest and bloodiest battles of the First World War. In February 1916 the German High Command launched an offensive against the French garrison town of Verdun and the ring of fortresses that guarded it. The German Chief of the General staff, Erich von Falkenhayn had quite rightly calculated the French would not give up Verdun without a fight. He anticipated that his attack would draw in large numbers of French troops who would be killed and lead to the French Army capitulating having been, in his words, ‘bleed white’. After early success the Germans were brought to a halt short of the town of Verdun and the French defences were galvanised together by Marshal Philippe Pétain. The defender’s then fought desperately under the motto ‘Ils ne passeront pas’ ('they shall not pass') to hold the ground. What ensued over the following nine months was to be slaughter on a colossal scale with the combined casualties of both sides totalling over 700,000. Ultimately the German’s failed to breakthrough to Verdun and did not launch another offensive on this scale until the famous ‘March Offensive’ of 1918. The campaign had a wide-ranging impact on the War. In order to relieve the pressure on the Verdun Front the Allies launched the ill-fated Somme offensive in July 1916 and the high casualty rate in the battle was a contributing factor in the French Army Mutiny of 1917.

Today the battlefield is a wonderfully atmospheric and evocative place to visit. Following the First World War, the ground had been so badly churned up by artillery fire that it was not re-occupied and nine villages in the region remain deserted. Instead trees were planted and the battlefield given over to nature. As a result the battlefield has a tranquil feeling that belies the fierce fighting that took place. However, evidence of this is quickly found as one wanders about the badly damaged fortresses and trenches that are scattered around the area. These provide an idea of what the area was like before and during the War and are testament to the ferocity of the fighting. Like many battlefields around the world it has its fair share of memorials to the fallen. These range from small individual and unit commemorations to the truly imposing Ossuary that dominates the skyline. This latter memorial houses the bones of many of the dead in its crypt and which can, rather gruesomely, be seen through windows in its sides. The battlefield also has one of the best First World War museums anywhere on the Western Front.

To really get a feel for the First World War and its battlefields a visit to Verdun is a must. It can be visited in reasonable detail on a two day stay, although it can easily occupy the enthusiast for much longer! So why not miss that relaxing break to the sun this year and take a trip to Verdun which is guaranteed to be thought provoking and interesting. Highly recommended.

Written by  Colonel Iain Standen.

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