This market is massive, hosting thousands of overlapping stalls, it's an eye full, and the name is a bit of a mouthful, but translates to something like: pan jya yoo-an jyoh hwoh shih-chahng – meaning dirt, or so the general consensus seems to be. In some places it's referred to as a flea market and in others an antique market – the difference being your opinion of the goods on sale. Here you can find all sorts of treasures, jewellery in pearl, jade, coral and turquoise, furniture, paintings and calligraphy, religious statues and other art, porcelain and pottery and odds and ends from the cultural revolution. Some of the store holders will give you the impression that they're selling you the real thing, but most of the time they're not. These are really good fakes though, and unless you really know your stuff you're not going to be able to tell the difference. But there should be a difference in the prices you're asked – so bargaining is key.

Learn some Chinese numbers or else write them down when bargaining so you know you're on the same page.

Written by  Emilie Stokes.

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