Calf Holes to Browgill, Yorkshire Dales

Caves & Caving in North West, United Kingdom

This is a superb little trip for beginners to the sport of caving but should only be attempted in good weather when rain is not forecast. From the village of Horton in Ribblesdale take the minor road leading north from the bridge over the river to High Birkwith and Old Ing, there is room to park between the two farms but the road is unsurfaced beyond High Birkwith and is not for the faint hearted or low slung sports cars!

It is a good idea to check that the lower entrance (Browgill) is not flooded before descending the 11 m pitch into Calf Holes- this requires an abseil rope or a ladder and lifeline. It is advisable to leave this in situ as it can easily be retrieved later on the way back to the parking area and avoids the embarrassment of being rescued should you be unable to make the through-trip!

A few hundred metres downstream the stream sinks into the streambed and at this point a low bedding plane (Hainsworth’s Passage) leads off to the left, it’s tight but not as tight as the next bit where a squeeze (The Sausage Machine- see photo) is followed by a short drop of a couple of feet into a small chamber.

From here a rift passage soon leads to the stream, the route lies off the right (downstream). In dry weather it is just possible to follow the steam but it is best to avoid the difficult climb down the 6m waterfall by staying high in the stream canyon and following the obvious crawl on the right which, after an awkward descent (rope recommended) one rejoins the stream at the foot of the waterfall. However the best exit is not to descend to the foot of the waterfall but to take the passage leading in the opposite direction (at the foot of the awkward descent) which leads to the streamway and Browgill entrance

On reaching the stream daylight can be seen and this is the lower entrance to the system (Browgill). Climb out of the canyon and head straight up the hill to join the track, head right and you will pass Calf Holes on the way back to your vehicles.

If you have time it is worth visiting Old Ing Cave (SD807768). This is a sporting stream passage with plenty of deep pools that can be avoided with a considerable amount of skill! Again this is not a place to be in wet weather. Old Ing Cave connects with Dismal Hill Cave via two sumps (not recommended since at the time of writing the dive line is broken) or via a tortuous squeeze at high level. Neither of these routes is suitable for beginners.

Gouffre Berger

Caves & Caving in Grenoble, France

This was the first natural cave to be “pushed” in 1956 to a vertical depth of just over a kilometre, it has to be on the list of every aspirant speleologist! Once rigged, a trip to the final sump (where the lower passages are submerged) and back out again takes around 30 hours but most cavers spend at least one night underground to enjoy the splendours of camping in “The Hall of Thirteen”, named after the original explorers. This really is a magnificent cavern where one is dwarfed by the huge stalagmites that decorate this enormous void.

The cave lies to the west of Grenoble on the Sornin plateau which was used as a hide out for the French Resistance during the Second World War. Most groups spend at least a week exploring the system and it is common for one team to rig and one to derig the system giving groups more time to explore other caves in the area my favourite being the “Gournier” which is found near Pont en Royans adjacent to the “Coranche” which has to be one of the most magnificent show caves on the planet!

The entrance to the system is a rather insignificant hole at the bottom of a depression in the limestone. The whole area is densely forested with pine trees and finding it can be problematical particularly at the start of the season (early July) when the path is not obvious. It is necessary to book about 12 months in advance via the mayor’s office in Engins. I was fortunate on my two expeditions to “The Berger” in being able to camp on the plateau- this s no longer permitted which can do nothing for the environment as it involves regular journeys by car up and down the steep road with its numerous hairpin bends leading to and from the village of Autrans where there is camping.

A series of vertical drops (pitches) lead to The Grand Gallery which is followed to The Hall of Thirteen. The only real obstacle en route is a flooded section, Lac Cadoux, which can be bone dry but more often than not is passed by boat or by a rather cold swim! Most groups leave dry clothes in The Hall of Thirteen and eat a decent meal before setting off for the bottom. Another flooded section of “canals” soon follows but after this the pitches come thick and fast before an acrobatic drop called “Little Monkey” is followed by the 50 metre “Hurricane Pitch” which needless to say is wet, cold and windy. The worst of the water can be avoided by an aerial traverse along the left hand wall along a series of ropes of doubtful vintage! The sump can be found a few dozen metres downstream. The camp in The Hall of Thirteen with its warm (well damp!) sleeping bags and cooking facilities seems miles away.

The system is prone to flooding which is why permission is only granted during the summer months, even then there is no guarantee the system will be free from flooding and a wise group will pay particular attention to weather forecasts.

As I’ve already stated no self respecting speleologist can miss this one!

The Haute Walking Route

Walking in Zermatt, Switzerland

This high level route from Argentier to Zermat is a must for all those who enjoy mountains and have the skills to cross glaciers with the hidden dangers of crevasses.

I have attempted the walk in both directions, sadly on both occasions bad weather had prevented me doing the most technically difficult section from Cabane de Valasorey to Cabane de Chanrion.

Starting from Argentiere the easiest option is to catch the ski lift to the top station then a reasonably easy walk across Alpine meadow followed by glacial moraine leads to the “Albert Premier” hut. It is worth booking this as its one of the busiest in the area.

The first part of the second day is entirely on snow and ice which is fairly undemanding as long as the normal precautions are taken to avoid the crevasses. Eventually one reaches the ski-lift down to Champex, however, the walk down is not too strenuous so you can save a few pounds here!

It is normal to catch a ‘bus from Champex to Bourg St Pierre. The Cabane de Valsorey is reached after a fairly long, tiring day again across Alpine meadow with a fairly steep rock rib leading up to the hut. There was a fairly ancient length of doubtful looking fixed rope on this section (I have to confess to using it despite its ragged appearance!).

On both occasions bad weather and shortage of time has prevented me doing this section- on each occasion I have resorted to public transport (which means retracing ones steps from the Valsorey back to Bourg St Pierre where there is excellent hostel accommodation.

The Cabane de Chanrion ca be reached by vehicle but only those with a permit, for the walker there are two options. The most pleasant option is to walk along the east side of Lac Mauvoisin over the hills- this is strenuous but the views are well worth it. The other option is a rather tedious 2-3 hours along the track used by motorised vehicles. This is a busy hut and atypically they often request a deposit when booking.

The easiest route from Cabane de Chanrion to Cabane Vignettes is along the Otemma glacier since it is dry (no snow) which means that the few crevasses are obvious so it is not necessary to rope up. However there is a line of deep holes about 1/3 the way up the glacier and great care should be taken here as a rescue from one of these may be impossible. In poor visibility or at night a rope is recommended! The final 100m to the hut is best described as interesting as it lies at the end of an exposed rocky ridge. Many folks take the easier snowy path to the north of the ridge- this is best tackled wearing crampons with the axe in the fall-arrest position!

The route from Vignettes to Cabane de Bertol is rather circuitous. Head east back towards the Otemma glacier then take the well worn path over the obvious col. Turn north then west and descend into the valley that leads down to Arolla. In good weather the Bertol can be seen on the rocks to the north. It looks totally inaccessible from a distance but fixed ladders and chains lead up the final few metres.

The first section of the route from Cabane de Bertol to Zermat is on snow and I must confess to seeing very little of it as the visibility was poor and this was one of the few occasions when I have HAD to resort to GPS navigation and even then had one very close encounter with a rather well hidden crevasse! Eventually snow gives way to rock and finally to alpine pasture.

It’s probably not worth staying at the Schnobeiel hut since a couple of extra hours lands you in Zermat where one can catch the train to Tasch for camping or a hostel. However if doing the route in reverse then a stop-over here is highly recommended.

Incidentally this section of the route in fairly well populate with chamoix and even the occasional ibex. - keep your camera handy!

Valais Walking Circuit

Walking in Switzerland

This was supposed to have been the opportunity for me to complete the remaining part of The Haute Route but it was not to be - I got out voted (one of the problems of living in a democratic society!)..

Part of our group of 19 camped in the tiny village of Pralong (highly recommended with an excellent restaurant on site) whereas those more in tune with warm beds and hot showers stayed in a hotel in Scion. Miraculously we all arrived at the barrage at the north end of Lac Dix within minutes of each other. (Incidentally this was, when constructed, the highest dam in the world and I believe still remains the third highest)

We cheated a little and caught the cable car to the top of the dam where we set off along the vehicle track to the head of the lake.

Here steep ground led up to glacial moraine (fixed chains on the steepest part) and this led after a few hours to the Dix Hut. The facilities and food here were excellent and I cannot recommend them highly enough.

An early start (0600) was required to avoid poor snow conditions later in the day. We descended fairly steep ground to the Glacier de Cheilon before climbing gradualy then steeply up beneath the Pointes de Tsena Reifien. These are best given a wide berth as we were accompanied by the sound of regular stone fall – most of us opted to wear helmets.

Just before the Col de Serpentine we turned east crossing steep snow to the Col de Brennay and on to the Pigne d’Arolla (3769m). It is essential to take a bearing to locate the correct col even in good visibility! By now the sun had softened the snow and the descent to the Vignettes was grim in thigh deep conditions!

The exposed rocky ridge leading to the hut is best described as interesting and most of our group opted for the less exposed (but just as hazardous) snow path to the north of the ridge.

Next day we had planned to reach the Chanrion hut via the Col de Brennay but we couldn’t face the tedious ascent at the start of the day! We opted for the “easier route” along the Glacier d’ Otemma although this does involve a rather tedious climb up Alpine pasture at the end of the day.

We had several cavers in our group who couldn’t resist a look in the tunnels below the snout of the glacier but these were found to be rather short (or flooded) and are not recommended.

On our final day we had planned to return to the Dix Hut via the Col de Lire Rose. We set off in fine spirits but in heavy rain accompanied by claps of thunder. As we approached the col the weather worsened and we were forced to retrace our steps rather than cross the final two glaciers in hazardous conditions. Electric storms in The Alps have no respect for climbers and we guessed that the snow bridges on the glacier would have been softened by the heavy rain and rather warm conditions.

A mainly downhill walk of around two hours in torrential rain and very strong winds ended at a hostelry where we took advantage of its offerings. Sadly we were now in the wrong place but thanks to the incredibly punctual Swiss ‘bus and train services we were reunited with our respective tents and hotels later that evening. A rather damp night followed but after a days drying out we managed to finish off our trip with a quick ascent of the Breithorn- suitable compensation for not completing our circular walk.

The Pierre St Martin

Caves & Caving in Aquitaine Southwest, France

I had wanted to explore the Pierre St Martin since my early teens having read the book “The Descent of Pierre Saint Martin” by the father of French caving Norbert Casteret in which he described the first descent into the system via the 312m shaft later named Gouffre Lepineux. Sadly it cost Marcel Loubens, one of the early explorers, his life when a clamp holding his harness to the winch cable snapped without warning. On my first visit to this beautiful area of the Pyrennes I was disappointed to find that there was no access via this route but an entrance via the Tete Sauvage was now possible which consisted of a series of pitches separated by relatively small ledges, it had a depth of around 380m. To make life easier, well relatively easier, a tunnel had been driven into the vast chamber, The Salle de Verna, at the end of the system with a view to using the void as part of a hydro-electric scheme. Fortunately for cavers this never materialised and this left us with the deepest “through-trip” in the world.

Despite being just over 1200’ descending the entrance is the easy part since the journey from the foot of the shaft to the “EDF” tunnel consists of a complex network of passages and often takes groups as long as 24 hours to complete the “traverse”.

After several hours of strenuous and often wet caving we reached the “Tunnel of The Wind”, a passage where the water level often reaches the roof rendering it impassable, but always wet and bitterly cold with a howling gale due to its small size and being the only connection between two vast networks of cave passage. None of us were looking forward to this 70 m long aquatic problem but after changing into wet suits and with a variety of flotation devices we all made a successful crossing (not that we had any choice in the matter!).

We had been underground 6 hours and we knew that we had around 3 ½ km left to reach the Salle de Verna and that the route to the foot of The Lepineux Shaft (the one that claimed the life of Loubens) was complicated. Groups loosing their way had resulted in several rescues and the local rescue team had marked out the route with short lengths of reflective tape, however despite this being a great help it was by no means foolproof and we lost our way several times!

Eventually we reached the foot of the Lepineux shaft and the original tomb of Marcel Loibens (his body was recovered some time after the accident). The site was marked with a simple vase of plastic flowers and the inscription “Ici Marcel Loubens a vecu les derniers jours de sa vie courageuse”. We sat in silence for a while each with our thoughts as we ate a small meal before packing our sacks and moving on leaving the Salle de Loubens in total silence once again.

Some of the chambers were ENORMOUS being over 200m long with walls and a roof that our halogen spotlights could not reach. Several hours later we finally reached the massive Salle de Verna which is the largest natural underground chamber in the northern hemisphere. All that was left was a short walk along the mined EDF tunnel (with a somewhat dubious roof in places) into the warm night air, followed by around an hours decent through dense pine forest to the tiny village of St Engrace. A truly magnificent adventure and one that will remain in my memory for many years to come.