Jerry Gore

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Member since
19th February 2008

Jerry was born in Britain on April 15th 1961, is married with two children, and was diagnosed as a Type 1 diabetic on January 31st 2001. Though new to diabetes, Jerry has not let diabetes get in the way of his activities.

Jerry has enjoyed a varied career in the pursuit of modern alpinism, over a twenty-year period. After leaving school he worked as the Mountain Co-ordinator for the Alberta Province, the aim of which was to climb the 75 classic peaks of the Alberta Rockies. Following this he undertook a Short Service Commission in the Royal Marines, during which he spent three winters developing major ice climbing areas in Arctic Norway, as well as succeeding on military expeditions to the Nepalese and Indian Himalaya.

A degree in Human Physiology at Loughborough University followed with work for the Karrimor Think Tank. Subsequent to this he has managed to combine promotional work with annual expeditions to the Greater Ranges. He has climbed extensively in the Alps, Norway, the Himalaya, South and North America, the Pamirs, Patagonia, Greenland, and Baffin Island, and enjoys technical alpinism in remote areas.
Jerry Gore crossed the Iceland Icecap in 1977 when he was 16, summitted Mont Blanc at 17 and climbed a 7000-meter giant Manaslu North in the Himalayas at 22. He has climbed abroad on an expedition every year since 1977 and excels at all the various climbing disciplines. But his enduring passion is for Big Walls. He first fell in love with the sport during a visit to Yosemite Valley, California in 1980, and his enthusiasm for the World’s largest rock faces have remained to this day. Jerry has climbed Big Walls in Norway, Pamirs, Greenland, Patagonia, Baffin Island, and the Bugaboos. He has climbed on expeditions with the World’s best including Warren Hollinger, Mark Synnott, Silvo Karo, and Twid Turner and has been exposed to all the various types of Big Wall experiences, from fast lightweight ascents to lightning strikes, through to opening up whole new Big Wall playgrounds. He has climbed numerous walls in Yosemite including The Shortest Straw, currently the most technical aid route achieved by a British team. Jerry is the UK’s most experienced Big Wall climber, and has achieved climbs of World class significance.
A public speaker since 1994, Jerry has developed his role as an inspirational speaker across Europe to both the Outdoor and Diabetic communities. Key clients and conferences include Hewlett Packard, Expedition Logistics, BMC Festival of Climbing, Camping and Outdoor Leisure Association (COLA), Operation Raleigh, The Royal Geographical Society, Eton College, St Paul’s College, The Mount Everest Foundation, Mountains for Active Diabetics 2003 and 2004.

Jerry lives in the Southern French Alps with his wife Jackie and their two children, Elizabeth and Charlotte, where they run AlpBase.com, offering mountain courses and accommodation for climbers, skiers, walkers and mountain bikers.

EXPEDITIONS AND CLIMBING ACHIEVEMENTS

1. 1977 BSES South East Iceland Expedition Climber

2. 1978 Brathay Exploration Group's Expedition
to the Jotunheimen Climber

3. 1979 School Venture Scout Expedition
to the Italian Dolomites Team Leader

4. 1980 Alberta '75 Recreation Project Deputy Co-ordinator
30 peaks climbed Lead Climber

5. 1983 Joint Services East Nepal Expedition
1st ascent: South Ridge, Manaslu North Climber

6. 1984 “Exercise Kulu”, Indian Himalaya Lead Climber/
New routes up to 6,5000m Medical Officer
Partner: Al Hinkes

7. 1985 The British Peruvian Cordilleras Expedition
Numerous new routes and BBC Mick Burke
film award Leader & Climber
Partner: Al Hinkes

8. 1986 Janka Raju
1st ascent: NW Face, Nevado Cayesh
ED3 V1 5.9 Leader & Climber

9. 1987 British Shishapangma Expedition Lead Climber/
1st Ascent SE Face (8013m) Cameraman
Partner: Steve Venables

10. 1989 Big Wall Biafo '89
Rock spires on Biafo Glacier (6000m) Leader

11. 1990 Troll Wall Winter '90
'Death to All' A4, V1, 5.11 Leader

12. 1990 AK-SU '90 Russian Pamirs
N Face Direct Climber

13. 1992/3 The Extremely Chile Expedition - Patagonia
N Ridge of The Shield ED2, VI, 5.11 Leader
Partner: Andy Perkins

14. 1994 Bugaboos, Western Canada
S.W. Buttress - N. Howser Tower
Young Men On Fire (VI, A4, 5.11) Climber
Partner: Warren Hollinger

15. 1995 The British Polar Sun Expedition
First Ascent of Great Cross Pillar -“Crossfire”
1000m., A4+, 5.10
First Ascent of The Turret - “Nuvualik”
700m., A3+, 5.10 Leader
Partners: Warren Hollinger and Mark Synnott

16. 1996 The British Greenland Expedition
“Mussel Power” (800m., A3+, 5.11b)
First Ascent of North Face of Nulamertorsoq Leader
Partners: Silvo Karo, Tony Penning

17. 1997 Alaskan Big Walls Expedition Leader
a) Zenyatta Mondata (A5), El Capitan, Yosemite
b) East Face Direct Mt. Barrille, Ruth Gorge*
Direct hit by avalanche at ¾ height on face
Partners: Silvo Karo, Ian Parnell
18.1998 A Greenland Odyssey Climber
New routes and peaks in Southern Greenland, via a 60’ yacht
Climbing Partner: Sir Chris Bonington CBE
Skipper: Sir Robin Knox-Johnston CBE
El Capitan, Yosemite Leader
“The Shortest Straw” (New Wave A3+)
First ascent by a British team, and sixth ascent overall
Partner: Ian Parnell
19.1999 The British Baffin Island Expedition 1999 Leader
First ascent “The Longest Day” (900m. ED3 A3+,Scottish VI)
Partners: Twid Turner, Louise Thomas, Shaun Hutson

20. 2000 The British Borneo Expedition 2000 Leader
First ascent of “The Crucible” (A3+, E4 6a, 900m.)
Partners: Twid Turner, Steve Long, Louise Thomas, Dan Haylock and
Martin Hartley

21. 2004 The British Cerro Torre Expedition 2004 Leader
SE Ridge of Cerro Torre, Patagonia (A2, E2 5c, Scottish VI, 2000m.)
Partners: Kenton Cool and Guy Willett


22. 2006 MAD ’06 – Expedition to Tsaranoro Massif, Madagascar Climber
Reequipped and climbed Gondwanaland (800m, 7c max, 7a+ oblig.),
Plus numerous other routes such as Out of Africa (550m., 7a), Always The Sun (450m., 7c+) etc.
Partners: John and Anne Arran, Gareth Parry, Giles Cornha

EUROPEAN ALPINE SEASONS - SUMMER

a Italian Dolomites Brenta Group 1979
b French Alps Chamonix Region 1982
c Valais Alps Zermatt Region 1983
d French Alps Chamonix Region 1986
e French Alps Chamonix Region 1987
f Swiss Alps Eiger / Oberland 1988
g Swiss Alps Eiger 1993
h Italian Alps Mt Blanc 2001
I French Alps Ecrins Alps 2003
J French Alp Ecrins Alps 2004
K Fench Alps Ecrins and Mt Blanc Range 2005
L French and Italian Alps Ecrins and Gran Paradiso 2006



WINTER UK CLIMBING/ALPINE SEASONS

a Scottish Highlands Most Winters from 1977 to 1997
b Jal' gesoai vi Mountain Range,
Arctic Norway 1983
c Skanland Region and Lyngen
Alps, Arctic Norway 1993
d Storfjellet, Nattmalstura &
Spansdalen Mountain Ranges,
Arctic Norway 1985
e Arolla Region, Valais Alps,
Switzerland 1986
f North Wales & Lake District 1986
g Ortler Alps 1986 / 87
h Swiss / French Alps - Eiger &
Grand Capucin 1989 / 90
i Chamonix 1995-98
j South Tyrol 1999


ROCK CLIMBING
Areas climbed include Yosemite Valley (5 Expeditions); Squamish Chief & Banff (Canada ); Zimbabwe; Peru; Switzerland; Italy; France; Germany; Belgium; Slovenia; Norway; Sardinia, Spain and all major inland crags and sea cliffs in England, Scotland and Wales. Over 1000 routes up to E6 6b, and French 7b on sight.

AlpBase.com

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