Dream of freedom on the open waves?
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The polar opposite of being chained to your desk must be standing by the wheel on the deck of your own boat. Even if you enjoy your job you’re trapped in that one space, between the same four walls, glancing, like taking tiny sips out the window, instead of drunk on the freedom of space and the potentially ever changing vista of the great open highways of the sea. OK. That was an incredibly romantic way to imagine sailing, but there’s a long tradition behind the idea of boats being the harbingers of humanity’s true freedom. I think the passion for travel that’s burgeoned into the collective belly in the last few generations is just an extension of boat lust. Frankly I’ve always wanted my own boat, not a metal one with an outboard motor like my Dad’s but a white one with sails that billow and ropes I have to tie in special knots. I dream of popping from pretty island port to pretty island port, gorging on the health giving properties of a fisherman’s diet of fish, waves, ocean air and patience. From postcard perfect Polynesian seas of bright blue to the vividly evoked storms of Turner’s greens and greys, it’s the unpredictable nature of the ocean that I fancy, the drama of it. Roads so reliably finish somewhere, making a road trip a bit of a foregone conclusion, but the ocean potentially stretches to the shore and it could easily turn out not to be the shore you’re expecting. You don’t have to be a sea dog to be caught up in the dream of a holiday on your own boat, there are companies that will provide you with a crew if it’s adventure you’re looking for, or a boat that even a beginner can master if you’re not after much more than a leisurely bob round the islands. ‘Skipper’ sounds an appealing title to adopt doesn’t it. Like the fresh, salt sprinkled air, a sailing trip reeks of freedom, even a canal jaunt equals time to yourself and progress at your own pace in a way that few other journeys can match. It’s a holiday from everything but history and the great outdoors. |
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More great sailing journeys » Where my boat will take me
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Sailing French PolynesiaSailing in French Polynesia If I was going to do my honeymoon over I’d spend it sailing Tahiti. It’s got just the right kind of islands, which look like the setting for a romantic cast away film, with pale beaches and palm trees and volcanoes sprouting from the centres and the kind of bays and coves that are deep enough in places to sail quite close to the beach. The Society Islands are probably the most popular for sailors. The main port is on Raiatea, but there are a couple of deep water harbours on the island to choose from. This is where a lot of the charter operators run from as well if you’re hiring a boat or crew. The largest port is Papeete on Tahiti island. From there you also have access to many of the most popular ‘destination’ islands, but there are more than 30 proper islands and about 80 atolls, so you don’t have to pull into the same places as anyone else if you don’t want to , we found enough deep water port options to keep us happy. The furthest out we went was to Hiva Oa, which is actually famous for being away from it all. My wife wanted to visit because the artist Paul Gauguin is buried here. Its dense jungle hides the buildings and constructions of the ancient culture which thrived here and a replica of Gauguin’s house. Some highlights of our own 14 day affair were Taha’a island in whose coral gardens we had the best snorkelling of the trip, very colourful, Bora Bora, I’d read all about the American soldiers not wanting to leave and I could understand their point, it is literally picture postcard perfect, and Huahine, which was just so lush and had the most incredible sunsets I have ever encountered. The Bay of Virgins on Fatu Hiva was busy but spectacular and the low lying Tumotus group of coral atolls surrounding bright blue open lagoons were a pleasure to island hop. Marae de Taputapuatea on Raiatea we saw on the way back after it was recommended to us by another sailing family. It used to be the religious centre of Polynesia and is a stone platform, made of many rocks like a country wall with lots of stone carving around it. It sounds quite plain but the story and history of it made it worth a stop and some photos. It’s a cliché, but the people were friendly and relaxed, and life took on a lot of extra colour on this trip, not all of which we managed to capture in the photos.
Review by Photo by flickr user jimg944 |
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Turkey's Ionian CoastSailing in Aegean Region, Turkey Turkey's Ionian coast is a haven for yacht sailors who enjoy finding hidden coves to anchor in, tiny villages and ancient ruins around every corner, and sunny breezy weather. The area is less busy with other yachts than the Carian and Lycian coasts which allows you to enjoy all the benefits of the Mediterranean haven, without the crowded waters. A great route is heading South from Izmir to Bodrum, stopping off at villages and archaeologically sties along the way. The villages in the Izmir district remain authentically beautiful due to strict environmental protection of the flora and fauna which also prevents the development of new buildings. Visit villages such as Torba which is surrounded by olive groves and woods and is often visited by sea turtles and Mediterranean monk seals. Cesme, meaning fountain in Turkish, has abundant sources of water, and its fertility is apparent if you wander by the fields of aniseed, artichoke and figs trees. There are a number of spectacular ruined Ionian cities to visit along the coastline, such as Teos and Didyma. Ephesus, which hosted one of the seven churches of Asia mentioned in the Book of Revelation, has a gladiator graveyard amongst its ruins. Yacht charters and flotillas are available everywhere in Turkey, with many companies based in the larger towns of Marmaris and Bodrum. Many people associate sailing holidays in Turkey with gulet boats, the traditional Turkish sailing yacht used for cruising. It should be noted that gulets are not however sailed any more and almost always motor rather than actually sail. Although this may not appeal to sailing purists, these vessels do offer the space and luxury which naturally comes with motor yachts. The weather on the Ionian coast hosts the 'meltemi' winds seen in Greece, which are steady North Westerly winds, usually between 5 and 10 knots, which make the conditions favourable to the slightly less experienced yacht sailor as well as experienced.
Review by Photo by flickr user schlongfield |
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Sailing the Andaman SeaSailing in Phuket, Thailand Thailand’s coast and the Andaman Sea which runs along it is another good family sailing destination, lots of small islands to look at, some flash looking but not too pricey resorts and their facilities, great snorkelling and a few famous films were shot here. Most parties embark from Phuket, more specifically Ao Chalong, the big shallow anchorage to Phuket’s south. The island of Koh Lon lies in the bay’s mouth keeping waters calm inside. From Ao Chalong most crews head for Phang Nga Bay, famous for its steep rocky islands which tower out of the sea and the flatter islands and mangroves shore side. Waves have shaped the rocks and islands of this bay, frighteningly precarious overhangs tease with their shade; smaller crafts can make it under easily, but the view of them, complete with rainforests growing on top was enough for my wife. Smaller crafts, I’m talking canoes and kayaks and the like come out in the afternoons, mostly from hire companies on the islands so be a bit wary. The channels between the islands and especially the mangroves in some places are quite narrow and some of the bays are like missing wedges of cake – narrow in their centre. The rock formations have also created caves and coves and other secrets, which made us feel like we were discovering things for the first time – except of course in the afternoons when we dodged the smaller boats. What we did usefully discover is that the sea in the bay is pretty shallow and we were able to anchor in less protected spots. To the south is Krabi, a continuation of the rocky island theme but with less drama and more sand, there are some beautiful beaches here and Krabi Town is the best place to stock up on provisions. Our resident snorkellers found Krabi less crowded and more rewarding. Further south again and you get to the Phi Phi islands, which seem to be even taller and narrower than those of Phang Nga Bay. The main port is on the south end of Phi Phi Don, the main island. The fringing reef off shore is again great for snorkellers but not so great for sailors, but the water’s clear and it’s easy to see the hazards. The water is really really clear. Phi Phi Le is where the Leonardo DiCaprio flim ‘The Beach’ was filmed, my wife reminded me of that several times.
Review by Photo by flickr user René Ehrhardt |
