Rock climbing on Mount Buffalo
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The sheer granite of Mount Buffalo’s North gorge wall is Australia’s answer to Yosemite, and a great testing-ground for those wishing to explore further afield. It offers a vast array of multi-pitch aid climbs including the classic “Ozymandias” (3 star 270m 22M4), although many of the routes have now been freed. Aid climbing requires both mental and physical stamina, as you climb carefully up the wall, testing your gear at every placement. It’s generally a slow process but immensely satisfying; one in which it is easy to get into the ‘zone’ – moving with the rock, not against it.
Most people access the base of the wall via rapping in although recently it has become more common to take the descent trail down the southern side of the Gorge. Routes on the wall can take 3 days or more, so check the weather before you head, and be aware that Buffalo gets snow in Winter, and hence it can get pretty cold.
Buffalo also offers a lot for the free climber, ranging again from multi-pitch classics like “Where Angels Fear to Tread” (3 star, 263m, Grade 17) to all number of classic granite routes either around the Gorge, or up on the Plateau at places such as The Cathedral and the Castle.
Mt Buffalo is a very pretty area, and well worth a visit even if just for a boulder on the granite outcrops, and a dream of climbs to come.
5 / 5
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Photo by flickr user Shiny Things
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