Riad al Bartal

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A delightful French-run maison d'hotes (riad guesthouse) in Fes's extraordinary medina

Fes is the cultural and religious heart of Morocco, an intriguing medieval maze of exotic souks and twisting alleyways where market traders still carry their wares by donkey. More turbulent and less touristy than Marrakech, Fes has few boutique guesthouses and Riad al Bartal is one that has already set a high standard. It’s a traditional riad that’s been renovated with élan by a French couple, Mireille and Christian Laroche. Here are the cool, classic Moroccan lines of an interior courtyard with white marble flooring and the warm, softly-lit bedrooms with decorative touches of colourful mosaics and fabrics. Soaring arches, cedarwood balconies and an abundance of potted plants add to the air of freshness. No overbearing European formality here…the Laroches will let you appreciate these soothing settings in peace.

However, they also have lots of good contacts in the city (the walls are adorned with paintings from local artists) and can help arrange tours of the city. And they’ll be happy to hear about your day’s outings over a candlelit meal on the terrace with its panoramic view of the medina. In the morning, listen for the riad’s namesake, the tiny birds that flit about the courtyard chirping sweetly, while enjoying Bartal’s wonderful breakfast amongst the other guests fortunate to have found one of Fes’s little gems.