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Overlooking the enchanting waters of the Messinian Gulf, a simple family-run pension with excellent food. If you’ve read Patrick Leigh-Fermor’s account of his 1950’s adventure into the Mani, then you’ll know of the region’s austere beauty, its formidable tower-houses, its fascinating history of rebellion, its sun-baked mountains, its crystalline sea-waters, its miniature Byzantine chapels, its endless olive groves. What you might not know is that the writer ended up settling in Kardamyli, a tranquil fishing village on the western side of the peninsula, where he still lives today. And that his long-serving housekeeper later set up her own taverna in a lovely stone house set on the sea-washed rocks beside Kardamyli’s tiny harbour. And that this taverna, still run by the now elderly but always sparkling Lela, serves some of the best food south of Kalamata, and in one of the most magical, timeless settings. And even then, you might not have discovered that there are 5 simple but charming rooms tucked away on the first floor. You might not have. But you just did.
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3 / 5
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