Of all the places in Rome...

...this is the place I come first, and never tire of it. You round the corner and there in front of you is probably the most spectacular building in the world - honey-coloured, battered, huge in such a small space - and standing for nearly 2000 years. It survived because it was turned from a temple to a church in the early middle ages. The huge doors are antique, and looking up in the portico, you will see its massive marble beams, stripped of their bronze cladding, as they were when they were erected in the 2nd century after Christ.

Inside, the oculi - hole in the roof - is all that lights it - but with Rome's bright light, this is normally enough in daylight, as you follow the beam of light around the floor and the walls. When it rains, water splashes on the worn marble floor.

In the small square, the sight of the majectic Pantheon and the tinkle of the fountain make any dinner a deux in one of the sit-out restaurants one of the most romantic of all time. Rome is a spectacular city, and the Pantheon is the most spectacular thing in it.