Most evocative ruin experience in the world

There are two ways to really appreciate these most ancient ruins. Get let in before any one else & walk around in the dark with a dim torch. Lie in the Kings chamber, turn the torch off, listen and imagine the ancient powers of this wonder of the world. Or climb up at dusk, sleep on the top and descend at dawn. Otherwise this enormous 5,000 year old monument whose extraordinary structural achievement has baffled many, can look disappointing, being increasingly overshadowed by Cairo on its doorstep.