Hong Kong

Like fireworks against Victoria Bay's night sky, Hong Kong is a sensory explosion of dazzling contrasts. This is an international powerhouse of a city: smog-filled, crowded, cacophonous, rich with odours and rampantly consumerist. Street markets, shopping malls, designer brands, the latest gadgets, great culinary experiences – Hong Kong has them in abundance.

Still rooted in tradition, old Hong Kong lives on beside new Hong Kong: ultra-modern developments are aligned with care according to the advice of feng-shui masters, a few steps away from traffic jams oases of peace can be found in neighbourhood temples, and historic trams rumble above one of the world's most advanced subway systems. Chinese culture mixes with the West: Have dim sum followed by afternoon tea to a soundtrack by this weeks Cantopop sensation.

7 million people make their buzzy way in the metropolitan area, but over 70% of the territory - made up of Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, the New Territories and outlying islands – is rural. Secluded beaches, traditional walled villages, nature reserves and wilderness trails are Hong Kong's flipside. Hong Kong's contradictions create its drama.

Best Time to Go

Subtropical Hong Kong is best visited from October to December and March to April, which is why these are also peak travel times. Winter is mild to chilly, perfect if you want to avoid the heat and crowds. Hot and humid

summer brings the threat of typhoons. Hong Kong knows how to throw a party. Chinese New Year is the biggest event in the calendar and shops and businesses shut down for three to five days.

If you're dying to see the celebrations, plan carefully. The Dragon Boat Festival is also spectacular. For different flavours catch the Hong Kong Rugby Sevens or February Arts Festival.

Shopaholics on the hunt for huge discounts should plan their trips around the summer and winter sales.

Language Barriers

Country code +852. No area codes. For directory enquiries (English) dial 1081.

Hong Kong is officially a bilingual territory. English and 'Chinese', with all dialectal variations, are the languages and signs display both, however, the vast majority of people are only fluent in Cantonese. English is

generally confined to tourist areas and the international business community.

Most hotels have internet access. Free access may be found at cafes, malls, public libraries and major stations.

Pay phones are disappearing fast, but can be found in many stations. Cheap pre-paid SIM cards are widely available and probably more reliable than pay phones.

Cash, Card or Cheque?

Hong Kong dollar/HKD ($), which breaks into a hundred cents.

Visa, MasterCard and Amex are widely accepted. Smaller shops may try to hit you with a surcharge (around 2-7%) for credit card transaction fees. Conversely, they will often give a discount (around 5%) for cash payments.

You can withdraw cash at most ATMs using an international card. Cash and traveller's cheques can be readily exchanged at banks, hotels and moneychangers. Laws are stringent. Net rates must be clearly advertised and,

prior to exchange, you must sign a form displaying the rate, the amount and any service charges. Banks generally provide the best rates. Shops, restaurants and hotels may be reluctant to accept traveller's cheques.

How Much?

Generally expensive, but Hong Kong can be done on a shoe-string. HK$300 a day is enough to get by: a bowl of wonton noodles costs HK$18.00; a litre of bottled water HK$8.50; and a train ride HK$7.90. Add a little luxury to

your trip though, and prices begin to skyrocket. Mid-range hotels start from around HK$850 a night. For a more comfortable experience, budget upwards of HK$1000 per day.

Hong Kong is a shopper's paradise. Great deals can be found: there is no sales tax and many merchants are receptive to haggling.

Tipping is not a Chinese custom, but can be expected of tourists. Hotels take a 10% service charge and porters should be tipped around HK$10. Restaurants and bars often add a 10% service charge, but little to none goes to the waiting staff. If you wish to tip staff, use cash rather than a

credit card. 5 to 10% (if less HK$5) is acceptable. For taxi drivers round up to the nearest dollar.

Getting Around

The urban centre is walkable; compact, with good signage and filled with interesting features like the Central-Mid-Levels Escalator and Walkway System. Hong Kong has an excellent public transport system. If you're in town for more than a couple of days, consider purchasing or loaning an Octopus payment card. It can be used on all forms of public transport, with discounts on some routes.

The Mass Transit Railway (MTR) is the best option for getting around northern Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. It provides a modern, clean and efficient service. Buses are for the more adventurous. English signage is limited. If you are not using Octopus, the exact fare is required. However unlike the MTR, they cover the south side of Hong Kong Island and a greater area of the New Territories. Taxis are plentiful and cheap compared to other big cities. Trams and ferries are unique attractions in themselves, rather than just a way to get from A to B.

Staying and Playing Safe

24-hour Hong Kong is one of the safest large, international cities. Nevertheless, be wary of pickpockets in crowded areas. They often operate in Tsim Sha Tsui, Causeway Bay and Wan Chai. Some of the dodgier stores will try to scam unsuspecting visitors: be careful of bait and switch tactics: goods offered for a holding deposit, so

the vendor can claim at collection that only an inferior or more expensive model is available. If in doubt, look for retailers accredited by the Hong Kong Tourist Board's Quality Tourism Services Scheme. Steer clear of doing

business with hawkers handing out cards in the street.

The emergency number is 999.

Red Tape

Visitors must carry valid photo I.D. (e.g. driver's license, passport) at all times. Foreign nationals can stay without a visa for periods of between 7 and 180 days. British passport holders can stay 180 days. For Americans,

Australians and New Zealanders it is 90 days. Russians and Pakistanis, amongst others need a visa.

Vaccinations aren't needed but there are anti-SARS and avian flu measures in place: travellers to Hong Kong have their temperature checked at immigration and assengers with a fever, pneumonia or travelling from infected areas are closely monitored or kept in isolation.

Health care is excellent, but visitors are required to pay HK$570 (deferrable) if they use the Accident and Emergency services in public hospitals. It can easily become more expensive so get insured. You can

drink from the taps, though many residents boil it or buy bottled. Carry some tissues in case you have to use one of the increasingly rare squat toilets. Not all have paper.

The Hong Kong authorities take a dim view towards certain kinds of behaviour. Smoking is prohibited in most enclosed public spaces and some outdoor areas. There is a HK$1500 fine for littering or spitting. Finally, don't wear just your birthday suit on the beach. Public nudity is illegal.