When it was founded by Europeans in 1521, San Juan was called ‘Port Rich City’. That bit, guarding the entrance to San Juan harbour, has kept its port atmosphere, but the rest of the neatly grided city pulses with a more modern thump, which blends with salsa sounds and the smell of the sea and exotic spices. Millions of tourists join the gridlocked traffic, which lets visitors out at surprisingly authentic Spanish markets or African quarters when they were expecting to end up amongst shiny office blocks.
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